Thursday, 11 August 2011

Makam Tuan Tulis

(Mousoleum of Tuan Tulis)
“He wrote the path to righteousness”
“He was never an Imam…but the Saint of Allah”




On my way to Gemas from KL, I was a bit worried that I will lose my way there. My brother Cikgu Rafdi, kept calling me “Kau kat mana sekarang?”every half hour. Taking a slow drive, passing thru few villages and I came across a small town called Tanjung Ipoh…I laughed to myself… “Sini pun ada Ipoh meh?” and to my attentive eyes on the road, I saw a signage “Makan Tuan Tulis”. “Now who can that be?”  Must be someone special, with historical background, I believe. The Malay community here should know about him. But then, I just put the idea aside, as I kept driving, asking myself, how much distance more to reach Gemas, was on my mind, really.

I finally reached Gemas, stayed over for two nights. There was a small Homestay programme on the 2nd day. I met the group of 11 Europeans, The Vegans, very friendly people and we just engaged ourselves with the programme arranged by the Gemas Homestay Committee.

Isn’t it strange, the 2nd night, while the Vegans enjoying the dinner and the cultural show, I went to seek En. Bahrain, a ketua kampong for Ulu Ladang in Gemas. He was alone sitting enjoying the programme like all of us. We chat for awhile, and the chat kept on going, when he mentioned about Makam Tuan Tulis. I was so attentive to him, despite his low voice, with the musicians playing their music so loud, I could only grasp a few pointers about Tuan Tulis.

….and so I went the very next day to seek out the infamous Tuan Tulis. Unfortunate, the mosque was amazingly quiet and I felt disappointed. It was closed.

I went back about ten days later. On my way into the Kg. Kuala Talang, I called out to Tuan Tulis, “Please, Please Tuan Tulis, let me take pictures of your sacred mausoleum and write a story about you. I have no ill intention but to write a blog about you in English, as there were none in English in the website, Malaysian Archives or in the Negeri Sembilan National History”. My call was answered that day. I met a group of Tabliks from Kelantan state (a religious group that goes from mosque to mosque, to preach, to learn from each other, to fellowship locally or in overseas). The leader, En. Nik, opened the door for me and we entered together with his friend. He said, this is also his first time inside the mausoleum and also the first time of hearing about a great man, Tuan Tulis.

A week later, I went there again, because I was not satisfied on the articles written in the websites. There were so many different stories, but which is the actual story?Only the people in Kg. Kuala Talang knows a little bit more, maybe more accurate than visitors. So I made the call first before I made my trip.

I would like to thank four persons from Kg. Talang for the help in this article. The late En. Abdul Aziz for his handphone number written on the door of Makam Tuan Tulis, that led me to En. Affendi (En. Abdul Aziz’s son), he told me to contact Puan Induk Seri and finally I met En. Abdul Khalid, who gave me the booklet regards to Tuan Tulis. He approved my blog on Tuan Tulis.
 
Tuan Tulis Ismail, born in 1840, in Kampong Kuala Talang in Tanjung Ipoh near Kuala Pilah. According to En. Abdul Khalid, there was a confusion of names and of two separate identity. Tuan Tulis name was actually Ismail Jaaman. There was an Imam by the name of Ismail Hussein who runs the same mosque built by Tuan Tulis. He built the Mosque in Kampong Kuala Talang in 1920. The mosque is about 1km from the main road. He was a religious teacher in a study hut in Kampung Lubuk Kawah, Temerloh, Pahang.
His mother is Puan Siram from the Mungkal ethnic. His mother’s grave is at Masjid Sri Mungkal at the junction of Sri Menanti. His father is En. Jaaman from the Acheh Ethnic. Record shows, he once owns a piece of rubber estate with the title grant and was sold to Lebai Ujang bin Ibrahim.
When Ismail Jaaman was young, he had wanted to marry a girl of his choice, his parents objected the girl, and instead he left the village with no knowledge where he was heading to. It was then 1870. He was 15 years old. He left for thirty three years. He came back at the age of 48. 
 
In 1895, Dato’ Bahaman, Rich People of Semantan (Orang Kaya Semantan) handed a book of scripture named Bahratul Mardiah, composition of Sheikh Daud Patani to Tuan Tulis. This book was then handed to Lebai Ujang (Datuk Penulis) in Kg. Kuala Talang. This book were not found and no records of who owns the book today.
In 1903, there was a Chinese Muslim from Kg Kuala Talang, came to know there was an Ismail who studied religious study in Kg Ulu Semantan, Pahang. He went back and told the Kg. Kuala Talang villagers. His family went to seek him and brought him back  They went through Kg Langkap, straight to Jelebu and then reach Kg Ulu Semantan, Raub, Pahang. In those days they walked the distance through the forest. Transportation were not available at that time. Tuan Tulis eventually followed his family back to Kg. Kuala Talang together with his teachings from the scriptures of Forokmasail, composition of the renowned Sheik Daud Patani. Tuan Tulis was his student. He could not afford books, so he wrote religious book for himself.  He wrote the Holy Quran with his hand writing. Because of his diligence, honesty and sincerity, he was the writer for his teacher. That was why he was named Tuan Tulis. He wrote continuously from dawn to dusk, hardly left the table. 
Story told, for almost three years of pursuing his religious studies, he and the villagers hardly had proper meals, like rice, they only had sweet potato sprouts (pucuk keledek) and water spinach (kangkong).
The ink is made from Keduduk (senduduk) - melastoma malabathricum, they boiled it and mixed with lime juice. The pen is made from branches of anau palm tree (sega anau).
Tuan Tulis is slim and short, lights to wear black bamboo pants (bambu kain hitam) and a head gear or cap (kopiah-berketayap) with black head/shoulder scarf (selendang kain hitam).
Tuan Tulis was once married Sinam, Dusin Family, Dusin sister. He fulfilled his parent’s wishes and he never went back to his wife’s residence at all. The marriage lasted 3 days. He was all towards religious practice and helping people through teachings of Al-Quran , the path to righteousness. He left his family for Mecca to seek knowledge.  He left by ship, but he had no money with him. Fortunately a sea man (captain) knew about his plight, gave him a free ride in return to work on the ship. All the years in Mecca, he was a renowned teacher. His path to righteousness was immense and recognized.
Miracles and Humility.
1st story, on one occasion, a lady came to his house asking for medicine and she brought him some steamed banana cake (lepat pisang). It was wrapped with banana leaves and kept it on the tray (boko). When Tuan Tulis opened the banana leaf , he saw a leech(pacat). The lady forbade him to eat, but he carried on eating. He said it was his good fortune (rezeki). (From a kind heart, food is not to be wasted).
2nd story, he mumbled “Allah, Mekah Terbakar” (Allah, Mecca on Fire”), when he was half shaving. This happened when his barber Lebai Nonai went in to back of the shop sharpening the blade. He came out and asked Tuan Tulis, “Where were you just now?” Tuan Tulis replied: “I went to Mecca (Mekah) to put off the fire”. (Calm our minds).
3rd Story, he saw some ants could not cross the puddle of water; he made a bridge for the ants to cross over to the other side. (We should pave the way for others).
4th story, he told his buffaloes not to eat the paddies of farmers, but to eat grass from this side of the fence. And they listened. (Be contented what we have). 
5th story, he set free all birds from the cages. He fed the pigeons, made pigeon holes and let them lay eggs and breed new hatches. (One should set free our heavy hearts and sins).

6th story, in 1933, The Yang DiPertuan Besar Negeri Sembilan (The 7th) DYMM Tuanku Muhamad Shah Ibni Tuanku Antah was very sick and had his treatment in London. He said he met Tuan Tulis in London. Both of them knew each other when they were at home (Negeri Sembilan). Tuan Tulis will washed Tuanku’s body with water, where areas of his body was in pain. He even drank the water Tuan Tulis offered. He felt recovered and excused himself to go to his room to get something, maybe a gift. When Tuanku came out, mysteriously Tuan Tulis disappeared from his view. Only then did he realized, Tuan Tulis actually demised 10 years ago. 
7th story, in 1936, Private Maulud bin Samad from Port Dickson camp, went home on his motorbike, to Kg. Kayu Ara, Ampang Tinggi around 5.00pm. At the bend road of Bukit Putus, he saw an elderly man walking, dressed in black bamboo pants, kopiah and a black shoulder scarf. He stopped and asked this elderly, “Where are you heading?” . The elderly man replied: “I am heading to Tanjong”? (Tanjong Ipoh). On the motorbike ride, they chat casually, then the elderly man advised the young private, to work diligently, proper and never be proud to others when you reach the height of your promotion. He then also asked the private for some money, the young man gave it to him. As soon as he felt the cold silence, he turned his head to check on the elderly man, he was no where found on the motorbike.
In later, years, the young private became Major Maulub bin Samad. He remembered clearly what Tuan Tulis advised him, he went to the Makam to pay respect eventually.
8th story, two religious man came to visit Kg. Kuala Talang to seek Tuan Tulis. One came from Kelantan and the other from Kedah. They went to the Kg. Kuala Talang Mosque and asked the Imam, hoping to see Tuan Tulis. The Imam said, he left the world long time ago. To their surprised, they said they met Tuan Tulis in Mecca (Mekah) not long ago.
These are the few stories told to me by En. Abdul Khalid, En. Bahrain and also excerpts from the booklet written by Haji Idris Bin Haji Jamin
In the Mosque you can find news clippings of his story. He was awarded Quran Plaque by Tuanku Muhamad Yang Di Pertuan of  Negri Sembilan. Tuan Tulis died at the age of eight three in the dawn (subuh) of the 10th day of Ramadhan. That was on the Monday 20 April 1923. The Yang Di Pertuan built the tomb in the compound of the Kampong Kuala Talang Mosque. Miraculously, the tomb today is mounted with hornet’s mount. I believe this is a good omen, for someone noble and pious. A humble Saint of Allah, who never once became an Imam until the day he demised. But a respected man before my eyes.


On the 2nd week of Hari Raya, I was told by En. Abdul Khalid's sister-in-law that the mount on the cemetery of Tuan Tulis was actually water well up from his cemetery. As years goes by, it became crystallized and turned out to be a huge crystal mount. She told me the crystallize grains cannot be found in Malaysia but of Mecca. A phenomenon we cannot explain. Hornets seem busy going in and out of the holes of the sacred mount. What is so special of the mount that only attracts the hornets? Why there are no other insects came to this Mausoleum? Why only on the Mount and not in the area around the mount? This baffles me.


Wednesday, 3 August 2011

Teratak Za'aba

I stumbled onto a beautiful house while on my way to Gemas.Not knowing what it was for? Was it someone's house or a palace that stood out majestically on a piece of land. I did not stopped. I went straight to Gemas instead.But my friend En. Bahrain said, I should go and see this Teratak Museum, as he was from Kampong Lonek, which is a kilometer away from this Teratak Za'aba. So, I went, ready camera but was in vain. Am not allowed to take the interiors. I went there 2 weeks later, hoping to gather more info from this museum, and i met the elder caretaker and told him of my intention. Its for the Blog i created and i found out that there were no articles of Teratak Za'aba or Za'aba alone in English. He was disappointed too. He gave me permission to do so, taking photos of the interior was simply uplifting my spirit, that enable everyone to read about Za'aba in English. I hope my blog will not disappoint many others if found wrongly written of facts, but please do write to me, so i can edit for better factual reading.








En. Zainal Abidin bin Ahmad born in September 16, 1895, in Kampong Bukit Kerdas, Batu Kikir, Jempol, Negri Sembilan. He was usually known as En. Za’aba. His father, Ahmad bin Ibrahim, descendants from Bugis Linggi, a wealthy man, religious learned, and one of the few who can read and write Jawi (Arabic). His mother Intan Awaluddin, a descendant from Minangkabau. Za’aba was raised in two worlds, in respect to his father’s lineage, a beholder of Adat Linggi or the Adat Muafakat dan Kebulatan or in actual, Muafakat bil Kitab Wassunati Gabulatan Minat Ustaz Illamanati. The two worlds means, patrilineal from Adat Linggi and matrilineal from his mother, Adat Perpatih.

He started schooling at the age of 12 in the Sekolah Melayu Batu Kikir (Batu Kikir Malay School). He was actually taught by his father at the age of five. His father was very careful towards his son’s education. His first lesson was Muqadam then followed by religious studies on Al-Quran. Everyday, he will do his studies, soon after the prayers subuh, zohor and maghrib. His father was strict and diligently encouraging his son to study.

At the age of 7, Za’aba finished reading Al-Quran four times. He could recite and memorized Surah Jassin with ease. When he was 8 years old, his father took him to the mosque many times to pray and to recite the prayers to attended devotees (Jemaah). They were impressed by him, someone small with great ability to perform prayers in the mosque. He became popular.

He could not write and read Jawi. Through his initiative, he learnt himself. He managed verses like Bismillah ar-rahman ar-rahim, Surah al-Ikhlas, Surah Fatihah, Kalimah Syahadad and Istighfar and with great faith in prayers and fasting. He also learnt Rumi later on.

Soon, he was transferred to Sekolah Melayu Linggi (Linggi Malay School) to pursue further his studies and research on Religious study and Arab language. Here is the interesting story to share, in 1909 Za’aba with another student Shamsuddin represented Sekolah Melayu Linggi to sit for the scholarship exam. Purpose for this exam is to get a place in an English school, Malay College Kuala Kangsar (MCKK) and Christian Brothers School in Seremban with an ambition to be a trainee teacher. His father was against the idea for going into an English school. Za’aba became the top student for the exam from the total of 265 students vying for the scholarship. His father had no knowledge about his scholarship. He attended St. Paul Institution in 1910, given free text books and exercise books and an allowance of RM5.00 for monthly expenditure. When his father heard of this, he was not allowed to go home. The relationship with his father sores for almost three years. At the end of 1912, his father decided to let him come back for the holidays, sending RM1.25 for the bus fare. After the forgiveness from his father, he felt more relax pursuing his studies. In fact, his father sent financial help and he managed to save up for a pair of shoes….no more barefoot to school.

1913, was fruitful for Za’aba, he sat for Preliminary Cambridge in Kuala Lumpur. He graduated Third Class Honors. In 1914, he sat for 2 exams, Standard V11 and Junior Cambridge. He passed with flying colors. In 1915, applied for Medical School in Singapore, but was in vain, because the school needs Senior Cambridge qualification. And also every applicant must have the efficiency in Latin language. End of 1915, he sat for the Senior Cambridge exam in Kuala Lumpur and he was noted to be the first Anak Melayu Negeri Sembilan to passed the exam in six years.

In 1916, he began writing seriously and was stationed in Johor Baharu as a teacher. His first article “Temasya Mandi Safar di Tanjung Kling” was twice published by Utusan Melayu. During his time as a writer, he had gathered many articles of his own, articles on politics, language, economy, religion, literature and education. He was a temporary teacher, a monthly salary of RM25.00 at the beginning of 1916. June 1, 1916, he became Assistant Teacher in Bukit Zahara Government School in Johor Baharu with a wage of RM116.25 inclusive of life allowance and a yearly increment of RM5.00. 

On the April 10, 1917, he married Rafeah (Urai) Mohd. Hasban. The marriage between them were not accepted by his father. His father had actually agreed to an engagement for his son without Za’aba knowledge. She’s from Juaseh. On July 2, 1917, he divorced Rafeah. Christmas in 1917, he married Fatimah (Che Teh) Umar (1902-1964). He had a daughter in March 19, 1918.

In 1918, Za’aba worked in MCKK, a monthly wage of RM158.00. Maximum wage was RM200.00 and a yearly increment of RM5.00.



When he was in Sultan Idris Training College in Tanjung Malim, 1924(Kolej Latihan Perguruan Sultan Idris),  he combined the Arab and English language together into the Malay language, to improvise the arrangement of the sentences and the phrases for school books and general reading materials.
In 1931, he suffered nervous breakdown. His health were unstable when he got out from the hospital. Final advise from the doctor, he was advised to visit Indonesia for three months to recuperate with the intention to change his own perspective of thoughts, views and everything, nor should he read or write during his rest in Indonesia.  
I
In 1932, he wrote his first book “Umbi Kemajuan” gathered from all religious articles he once wrote. He was active in community service.  He also became the General Advisor for the Writers Guild of Malaya (Penasihat Umum Persaudaraan Sahabat Pena Malaya) in 1937.
World War II broke, he was transfer to the British Telecast and Informative Department in 1939 to be the war announcer in Radio Malaya in Singapore. 

In 1945 he was the President of the Selangor Malay Association (Yang DiPertua Persatuan Melayu Selangor). In 1947, he was the lecturer for the Malay Language (Bahasa Melayu) in the School of Oriental and African Studies in London University until August 1950. He went back to Malaya in August 1950. On the way back from London, Za’aba and his wife went to Mecca for Haj, he was then 55 years old on September 16, 1950.

He retired at the age of 55.




In 1953, he was still sought after for his great work, he became the Senior Lecturer for the Malay Research Department (Jabatan Pengajian Melayu) at the University Malaya in Singapore. He was with JPN till December 31, 1958. Working hand in hand with Ungku Aziz, they formed student language institution and two years later, Federal Malay Language University Malaya (Persekutuan Bahasa Melayu Universiti Malaya)

At the age of 59, he went for his final exam in London University, and received Master of Art Second Class (Lower). He became a scholar/professor in 1956 officially, with the ‘songkok’ award at the Third Literature and Bahasa Melayu Congress in Johor Baharu. 

In 1962, he accepted the National Prestigious Award (Pingat Mangku Negara) that came together with the title Tan Sri by the Seri Paduka Baginda Yang Di Pertuan Agung. He also received the degree in Honorary Doctorate in Literature at the first convention held in the University Malaysia in 1973.
He was known as the pioneer of Malay Grammar. He was worried about the backwardness in the Malay society. The importance of the Malay language, reading and writing meant so much to him and he was thoughtful in this aspect for the Malay community. 

Here are the few phrases he pointed out during his tenure as the writer for his people.

Kepada anak anak Melayu yang bernasib baik.
Mendapat pelajaran tinggi di Universiti,
gunakanlah pengalaman dan pengajian yang perolehi ini
untuk meminpin, mengajar anak anak bangsa kita
untuk mengembang dan mempertiggikan taraf pelajaran Melayu
For all Malays who had the opportunity to University,
used the experience and knowledge
gathered to lead and teach our children,
in order to expand and elevate the education
  
Jangan mabuk arak
Jangan bekerja terlalu lama
Rajin dan tekun
Tenang walaupun rumah kita terbakar
Evade drunk
Do not work too hard
Elegantly hardworking
Stay calm even though our home is on fire.

Mengarang buku buku Melayu bukan
Untuk orang orang asing tetapi untuk orang orang Melayu sendiri.
Kerana itu saya jarang menulis dalam Bahasa Inggeris
Composing Malay books is not for foreigners
but for the Malay itself.
That’s why I seldom write in English.

Tan Sri Dr. Haji Zainal Abidin Bin Ahmad (Za’aba) demised at the age of 78 in October 23, 1973

Teratak Za'aba officially open in February 2001. Officiated by Negeri Sembilan Chief Minister Tan Sri Haji Mohd Isa bin Haji Abdul Samad. 

Teratak Za'aba housed many Za'aba's artefacts and information. 

Opens everyday from 10.00am to 6.00pm except on Friday Prayer from 12.15pm to 2.45pm. 
Entrance FOC.

Facts taken from the book by Lembaga Muzium Negeri, Negeri Sembilan Darul Khusus and Arkib Negara Malaysia.
Photos granted permission by the caretaker for my blog.

Saturday, 25 June 2011

Pesta Ka'amatan 2011


Dusun Lotud

Murut Tenom



Rungus



Bisaya

Bobohizan

Well, this is my first blog to share in this Blogger. I am glad i made the effort to share with many who are in interested in my blog with photographs I took during my visit to KK for the Pesta Ka’amatan 2011. And this was my very fist visit to the Borneo Island. And Sabah is the start- off this year. I have always wanted to visit The Borneo island, particularly Sabah, where i love to see the many cultures ever existed here. In total there are about 30-32 ethnic groups recorded today, and it will be increasing still, as there are still many ‘hidden’ groups deep in the rain forest. Lets hope we will get to see most of them in the near future. The biggest groups are the ‘Kadazan Dusun’, ‘Murut’ and the ‘Bajau’.

Murut Tenom
Kadazan
Sukang
I arrived at the Pesta Ka’amatan very early on  the 1st day (30/6) of this festival. Many participants from various ethnic groups were preparing themselves, displaying their necessary artifacts in their homes (baloi), preparing food and drinks, costume jewelries for sale, T-shirts, caps and hats for sale and drinkers, you know where they are heading for….Beers!






                            
In the Murut Baloi, I enjoyed most are the cultural dance and the lansaran dance platform. The cultural dance flanked by the gong players, making the dance very interesting yet traditional.  The lansaran dance platform is enjoyed by young and old, simply step on the platform and someone will start to bounced the platform with their 2 feet, giving the slow rhythm from the start and it gets faster as you wish. This is the past time dance by the Muruts in their villages.


                          
Musicians from the Kadazan and the Muruts were excellent. Especially the flutes played by young musicians. The lure of the music simply captures everyone’s heart. I, for one just refused to leave the Baloi, simply waiting for another round of pure entertainment.

This Pesta Ka’amatan will not be complete when there is no Pageant Queen chosen in this festival. It was the ‘topic’ for the whole country during this time when comes harvest. Many would want their daughters to be ‘Huminodun’, the most beautiful princess for Sabah, taking the task to benefit all people of Sabah, the giver of life to nature and her people. She is also known as Ms Earth Sabah or ‘Unduk Ngadau’. This year is won by Ms Bo Tiza from Panampang, flanked by 1st runner from Tamparuli, and 2nd runner up from Tuaran.


Ms Bo Tiza (Panampang District) - Unduk Ngadau 2011
 Will you want to join me next year to Pesta Ka'amatan and Pesta Gawai?